
How dermatologists choose the best anti-wrinkle cream: practical guide
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Time to read 8 min
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Time to read 8 min
Surprising but true: in 2021, only two anti-wrinkle creams out of ten tested have demonstrated sufficient effectiveness according to 60 Million Consumers. A lack of active ingredients and probable concentration.
Indeed, choosing the best anti-wrinkle cream can seem like a real challenge given the multitude of products available on the market. In fact, our team of experts has spent no less than 21 hours researching, analyzing and testing different formulas to guide you in this crucial choice.
Not all anti-wrinkle creams are created equal, as cosmetology professor Laurence Soiffard attests, confirming that their effectiveness is mainly proven for hydration. That's why it's essential to understand the criteria dermatologists use to evaluate these treatments.
In this practical guide, let's discover together the scientific methods and rigorous criteria used by dermatologists to identify truly effective formulas.
Summary
Dermatologists apply rigorous evaluation criteria to determine the effectiveness of anti-wrinkle creams. To obtain reliable results, these experts follow precise scientific protocols.
Clinical studies are the basis of dermatological evaluation. Double-blind tests, in particular, allow objective results to be obtained over a period of 4 to 8 weeks. These studies generally involve around thirty volunteers, aged 30 to 71, who apply the product according to a strict protocol. In addition, laboratories carry out ex vivo tests on human skin explants to measure the increase in essential components, such as collagen and elastin.
Dermatologists pay particular attention to the concentrations of active ingredients. In fact, to be effective, a cream must contain specific levels, such as the examples below:
The assessment protocols are based on precise instrumental measurements. Dermatologists use the FOITS method with an optical reader to analyze the depth of wrinkles. In addition, hydration is measured by corneometry, while elasticity is assessed by specialized devices.A British study published in the British Journal of Dermatology has shown that a complex of creams containing niacinamide and peptides can match the effectiveness of conventional dermatological treatments.
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Recent scientific research has identified several anti-aging molecules whose effectiveness has now been proven by rigorous studies.
Hyaluronic acid is particularly distinguished by its exceptional capacity to retain up to 1000 times its weight in water. This molecule, naturally present in the skin, gradually diminishes from the age of 25. In addition, retinol, derived from vitamin A, demonstrates a remarkable action on cell renewal and collagen production. Vitamin C, for its part, acts as a powerful antioxidant while stimulating collagen synthesis.
The effectiveness of anti-aging treatments also depends on judicious combinations. Thus, dermatologists particularly recommend:
Indeed, advances in epigenetics reveal that nearly 85% of our genes can be influenced by external factors. This discovery paves the way for new anti-aging approaches. Peptides, for example, are emerging as promising active ingredients capable of increasing collagen production. Bakuchiol, a natural alternative to retinol, demonstrates comparable efficacy without the irritating effects. In addition, plant stem cells , especially those extracted from Ruysch's Dracocephalus, have an exceptional potential for self-regeneration.
Technological advances in anti-aging cosmetics mark a new era in the development of dermatological care.
There are several asset delivery systems that we can name, and which we will develop more in other articles:
We use as much as possible suppliers who hold several patents in the field of cosmetics, in particular concerning compositions and active ingredients intended to improve skin health. For example, one of its patents proposes a peptide compound that can be used for anti-aging and dermatological applications. This compound includes amino acids such as lysine and aims to stimulate the synthesis of molecules of the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the skin, thus contributing to its elasticity and firmness.
The use of active ingredients with patents makes it possible to provide even more effective skin care technology, more relevant in particular in the way of reducing the visibility of wrinkles, which is one of the most sought-after criteria in anti-aging care by people with mature skin, whether in their day creams, night creams or serums.
This Smoothing & Lifting Anti-Aging Collagen Serum is a concentrate of biotech anti-aging technology for skin aged 40 and over:
- Edelweiss (organic extract and stem cells) provides an antioxidant action.
- 3 types of stem cells (Swiss Uttwiler Spätlauber apple, Alpine rose and Gamay grape) help the skin actively fight the signs of aging by extending the longevity of skin stem cells, while improving their vitality and helping them reduce UV-induced stress**.
- A powerful, highly concentrated peptide complex helps stimulate collagen production to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improves skin structure.
- 2 types of hyaluronic acids intensely hydrate the skin.
- A fruit enzyme brightens the complexion, softens and smoothes the skin to reveal its radiance.
- Crocus improves cellular communication.
Its ultra-creamy texture is quickly absorbed and melts on contact with the skin. It is an ideal base for makeup.
** Does not contain sunscreen
The safety of anti-wrinkle creams is a major concern for dermatological laboratories, requiring rigorous evaluation protocols before any marketing.
The laboratories conduct HRIPT (Human Repeat Insult Patch Test) tests on a panel of 50 to 200 volunteers for six weeks. These assessments help identify potential allergens present in the product. In addition, qualified toxicologists perform a complete safety assessment considering exposure and duration of use of the product. In addition, irritation and sensitivity tests are conducted on human subjects to monitor any adverse reactions.
To obtain the "hypoallergenic" label, an anti-wrinkle cream must meet strict criteria:
In particular, laboratories favor a composition refocused on theessential for sensitive skin, avoiding perfumes, essential oils and preservatives that may irritate. This is not necessarily the case for the best anti-wrinkle creams, which can have a high concentration of active ingredients.
To deepen your knowledge:
→ What are the differences between a cream and a serum?
→ How to differentiate between Dehydrated Skin and Dry Skin?
Scientific research and technological advances clearly demonstrate the importance of careful selection of anti-wrinkle creams. The effectiveness of an anti-aging treatment is essentially based on the quality of its active ingredients, their optimal concentration and the vectorization technologies used.
Certainly, choosing an anti-wrinkle cream requires careful attention to clinical studies, test protocols and innovative active delivery systems. Dermatologists particularly recommend formulas combining hyaluronic acid, vitamins, peptides and amino acids, as well as Antioxidant principles, whose effectiveness is scientifically proven.
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Safety and skin tolerance remain paramount in choosing a anti-wrinkle cream effective. Rigorous dermatological testing and continuous post-marketing surveillance ensure products are safe and suitable for daily use.
The most effective, scientifically validated active ingredients include hyaluronic acid for its moisturizing power, retinol for cell renewal, and vitamin C for its antioxidant and stimulating action on collagen production.
Dermatologists use rigorous scientific criteria, including double-blind clinical studies, precise instrumental measurements of wrinkle depth, skin hydration and elasticity, and analysis of active ingredient concentrations.
Recent innovations include advanced delivery systems such as C-Drone technology, next-generation formulations with optimized concentrations of actives, and the use of patented technologies such as stabilized cysteamine to treat pigmentary problems.
Safety is assessed through rigorous dermatological testing, including HRIPT, a comprehensive toxicological evaluation, and strict hypoallergenicity criteria. In addition, post-marketing surveillance is in place to detect potential adverse effects.
Clinical studies are crucial because they provide objective evidence of the product's effectiveness. They typically involve testing on volunteers for 4 to 8 weeks, with precise measurements of the effects on wrinkles, hydration, and skin elasticity.
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